HOW TO DETERMINE A KITTEN'S SEX

To determine a kitten's sex: A female kitten's genitals will resemble an upside-down exclamation point with the vertical vaginal slit below the anus. A male kitten's organ will look more like a colon with the penis below the anus separated by a space to accomodate his testicles, according to the US Humane Society.

--Dear Tabby

TO CONTACT DEAR TABBY WITH A QUESTION OR COMMENT, EMAIL Dear Tabby. SHE LOVES TO HEAR FROM HER FRIENDS.

CATS WHO HATE EACH OTHER

Some cats just plain hate each other. I don’t know why. Their humans don’t know why. Our dear goddess Lady Bast doesn’t know why.

They.
Just.
Do.

So, what do you humans do when you have two of those cats who hate each other?

Let’s go back in history a bit. There are some things you can do when the second cat arrives in what the senior cat considers his/her very own home. The place to do whatever you can to make the introduction go as smoothly as possible is when you bring cat #2 home. But this is a slightly different problem than WHY some cats despise each other so heartily. We’ll deal in another answer about how to bring cat #2 home to insure as little hatred as possible.

Meantime, let’s look into the hate problem a little further.
Your kitty was so sweet and lovable with you, you felt sorry for him/her when you had to leave for work. Lonely kitty! Solution: Get him/her a kitty friend!

Um, not necessarily. There are several reasons why this could signal the opening round of Cat Wars I.

Cats Are Very Territorial. That mans a cat feels a stranger has invaded his/her territory. In a case like that, a cat might be aggressive toward one cat -- usually the most easy-going -- but friendly to another.

The time when problems crop up is when a new kitty arrives, a young kitten becomes a grownup cat, or the home cat looks out the window to see a strange cat in the yard the home cat may chase, ambush, hiss, and/or meow angrily.

And it’s not just the boys. Girl cats can be just as infuriated by strangers.

But boy cats have a special hate for other boy cats, especially if one or both of them is not fixed. Adult boy cats may threaten and even fight with other boys. They’ll fight over a girl, for a better (in their opinion) place to nap, or to defend territory.

In cat disputes, both cats are likely to stare, howl, snarl and fluff their tails. If one backs down and walks away, the seeming victor is satisfied and will usually also walk away. If nobody backs down, it’s likely an actual fight may result. That means, the two cats come together, roll around biiting, kicking, yelling, clawing and then -- walking away. They they’ll start again…What can a human do? Distract them. This isn’t too difficult. In my opinion, they’re rather happy to have a good excuse to drop the fight -- people can get hurt in those fights! All the humans have to do is clap hands, toss a pillow, or grab the always-nearby squirting water bottle. These moves can also break up an actual fight -- but humans, don’t get involved! You could get hurt.

Another reason for fighting comes when a cat faces what he/she considers an attacker -- animal or human -- that he/she can’t escape. This could be punishment or threat of punishment from a human, an attack from another cat, or anything that makes the cat frightened. (This is one of the many good reasons for NOT punishing a cat by hitting or striking. It does not teach your cat anything except their human “friend” is actually someone to be feared.)

If the cat is crouching with legs and tail pulled in, ears flattened against head, and rolling a bit to one side, humans, don’t approach this cat. If someone ten to 20 times your size came up to you, threatening you, and you couldn’t run away, how desperately might you fight this frightful monster? Yes, me too. With all I’ve got.

Let your cat calm down. If your cat gets angry at a stranger in his yard he saw while looking out the window, don’t try to reassure him by petting him. He may turn and bite you -- not because he hates you, but because his mind is so filled with “STRANGER! INVADER!” that it’s all he can think about at the moment.

If you’re seeing more-than-usual amount of aggressive actions out of your cat. Call your vet. Sometimes cats are feeling sick and miserable, and taking out their feelings on anyone that crosses their path. The vet may also have a short course of anti-anxiety medicine your cat could take while you’re working on ways to change behavior.

If the vet doesn’t find any problems, you could try starting the introduction process all over again (Yes, we’ll get to that subject shortly.)

There are professional humans called “animal behaviorists.” You could consult with one of these people.

If all else fails, you could look for another home for one of the two who can’t get along

Did I mention, spay or neuter your cat? If I didn’t, I should have. This is NOT cruel to the cat, as some humans say (especially if they are looking for an excuse to cheap out on this procedure.) Really, the behavior of one non-fixed cat can affect every pet in your home.

--Dear Tabby

TO CONTACT DEAR TABBY WITH A QUESTION OR COMMENT, EMAIL Dear Tabby. SHE LOVES TO HEAR FROM HER FRIENDS.

WHAT YOUR CAT NEEDS FROM YOU

 

By Dear Tabby

Yes, we cats are proud and free and independent and all that. BUT...there are some things we really, really need from our humans. Here are a few: safe, healthy food; clean, fresh water; a safe shelter, vet care, a clean litter box, and, of course, love. Lots of love. But there are more.

1. We need to be kept indoors, or, if we go out, it should be with a harness and leash firmly attached to our humans. Why? Yes, it's fun to run free and play in the outdoors. But it's not so fun when we are attacked by a savage dog, or tortured by cruel children, or run over by cars, or bitten by raccoons...you get the idea.

2. Make sure windows have screens that don't fall out if we jump up onto the window sill to check out the world. It is NOT true that we land, unhurt, on our feet if we fall out of a window several stories up in an apartment building.

3. If you're sure we can be safe outside, at least give us a breakaway collar. If it carries our human's address and phone number, so much the better. Non-breakaway collars can be deadly. Many cats have died a horrible death because their leather collar caught on a low branch of a shrub or bush. If the cat could not break the sturdy collar, it died a painful death from hunger, thirst and exhaustion.

4. Take us to a vet for a regular checkup. People who don't already know a vet can ask an animal shelter or rescue group for a referral.. Or you can go to your telephone book and pick out several vets in your area. Call each one and ask what's the cost of an office visit. You may be surprised at the difference between answers!

5. Spay or neuter your cat. It is not cruel to do so. All that is lost is the instinctive behavior your kitty would need if living in the wild. For sure, behaviors of fighting, spraying, producing endless litters of kittens is not something your kitty needs in your house. It will help your cat live longer, because kitty is no longer driven to fight and breed over and over again.

6. Feed your cat a healthful diet and make sure clean fresh water is always available.

7. Keep that litter box clean! Most cats will instinctively use a clean box. (If there are mistakes, look at our article on that subject under 'cat care.'.) Put the box in some convenient but out-of-traffic spot.

8. Don't forget to brush your kitty, whether the fur is short or long. Brush regularly to keep coat and skin healthy and cut down on the amount of fur getting shed.

9. Make sure there's time for play. Sure, cats amuse themselves quite well. But your kitty will know you're the best friend when you play with him/her.

10. Be ready with toys and scratching pads or post to save wear and tear on your home! A good dose of catnip on the new scratching post or pad usually gets the scratching off to a good start. Or, a part of an outdoor log, with bark on, can be the place for a good scratching workout, especially after it is sprinkled with catnip.

11. Teach your cat what not to do by blowing a whistle or squirting from a water bottle. Do not hit or kick or otherwise physically hurt the cat. This only teaches fear of you.
12. Remember to be gentle and patient with your cat. Be sure that what you expect from him/her is, well, reasonable. (Some cats will learn to sit on the toilet. Some simply do not have it in them to learn that. The same with walking on a leash. Some will, others will just never get it.)

Finally, remember that almost any problem has a solution, especially if you deal with it early. Don't wait weeks, months or years to solve issues. There's a lot of good advice around. For example, you can always ask me! Just come here,  to DearTabbyTheAnswerCat, and together we can surely figure it out!

-- Dear Tabby

FOR KITTIES WHO LIKE TO CHEW ELECTRICAL CORDS

To keep your appliances functioning and also to avoid electrocuting Kitty, coat those cords with something cats don't like to taste. For example, hot sauce (ugh!) And there are sprays and non-toxic ointments for this purpose that you can find at pet supply stores, according to the Humane Society.

HOW TO DISCOURAGE KITTY FROM JUMPING ONTO COUNTERS, TABLES, ETC.

Get some of that double-faced rug tape. Cut some strips and stick to counter tops, table tops, etc., wherever you don't want Kitty to jump. After her feet stick to the tape a few times (oh horrors, she yowls!) those surfaces won't be so attractive to her, according to the Humane Society.

A GUIDE TO CAT VACCINATIONS

All cats are at risk of exposure to various infectious diseases, even if they spend most of their time indoors. Some infectious diseases are life-threatening, while others such as rabies also pose a public health risk. Preventing infectious disease is more beneficial to your cat than treating disease once it occurs. The cat's natural immune system helps eliminate viral and bacterial infections. Thus, preventative vaccination is one of the most reliable and cost-effective methods of health care available to pet owners.
Vaccines contain killed or weakened forms of viruses or bacteria. They work by stimulating the production of protective antibodies in healthy animals. When your cat is then exposed to a disease, those antibodies neutralize the virus or bacteria that are trying to cause an infection.

Nursing kittens ingest antibodies from their mothers. These maternal antibodies provide early protection against infectious disease. However, they also neutralize the immunizing agents in vaccines. Maternal antibodies naturally decline during the first three to four months of life and eventually disappear. For this reason, kittens vaccinated earlier than 12 weeks of age should be revaccinated after 12 weeks of age. We want to give a kitten the opportunity to develop its own immunity as early as possible, but we still want to be sure those kittens that still have circulating maternal antibodies are covered as well.

The following infectious diseases of cats can be prevented or lessened by vaccination:

1.Rabies: Rabies is a viral infection that can affect all warm blooded animals. Once the rabies virus enters the body, it travels along the nerves to the brain. It can take days, weeks, or months for your cat to show signs of rabies. Infected cats may show unusual behavior such as being anxious, staring or having a blank look, unusual aggression, weakness or lack of coordination, running continuously, or withdrawal. Once the signs of rabies appear, the disease is always fatal.

Western Pennsylvania sees a large number of rabies cases in wild and domestic animals each year. Thus rabies vaccination is legally required in all cats. Vaccination is very effective in preventing rabies. Cats should be vaccinated at 12 weeks of age, again at 1 year of age, then every 1 to 3 years depending on the type of vaccine used.

2.Feline Panleukopenia: Feline panleukopenia is a highly contagious, often fatal disease of cats. The disease is caused by a parvovirus transmitted by contact with infected cats, their feces or environmental contamination. The virus is highly resistant and capable of surviving in the environment for months. Signs of acute infection include fever, anorexia, vomiting, diarrhea, dehydration and abdominal pain.

3.Feline Respiratory Disease: The great majority of feline respiratory diseases result from two easily transmitted infections, feline viral rhinotracheitis and feline calicivirus. These infections result in similar illnesses, characterized by discharge from the nose and eyes, redness of the eyes, ulcers in the mouth, loss of appetite, depression, and inflammation of the upper respiratory tract. Cats usually recover in one to two weeks, although cats with feline viral rhinotracheitis can become persistently infected after returning to normal, shedding the virus during periods of stress.
The vaccines for feline panleukopenia, rhinotracheitis, and calicivirus are usually combined into one shot. We recommend that kittens be vaccinated for these viruses at 8, 12, and 16 weeks of age, again at 1 year of age, and then every 1 to 3 years.

4.Feline Leukemia: Feline leukemia virus (FeLV) causes cancer in about 20% of infected cats and also contributes to other disease by suppressing the immune system and bone marrow production. The feline leukemia virus is associated with high mortality in cats. A major source of spreading the disease is persistently infected cats that appear to be healthy. All it takes to spread FeLV is contact with the bodily fluid of an infected cat. Any of these situations could put your cat at risk: social grooming, common litter boxes, shared food and water bowls, and bite wounds.

The feline leukemia virus vaccine should be given to all kittens at 12 and 16 weeks of age, and to all cats who spend any amount of time outdoors. Prior to vaccination, cats should be tested for the feline leukemia virus to ensure that they are not infected.

Bethel Park Animal Clinic, Pittsburgh PA

BATHING A CAT (NOT TOTALLY SERIOUS)

　
Some people say cats never have to be bathed. They say cats lick themselves clean. They say cats have a special enzyme of some sort in their saliva that works like new, improved Wisk - dislodging the dirt where it hides and whisking it away.

I've spent most of my life believing this folklore. Like most blind believers, I've been able to discount all the facts to the contrary - the kitty odors that lurk in the corners of the garage and dirt smudges that cling to the throw rug by the fireplace.

The time comes, however, when a man must face reality; when he must look squarely in the face of massive public sentiment to the contrary and announce: This cat smells like a port-a-potty on a hot day in Juarez.

When that day arrives at your house, as it has in mine, I have some advice you might consider as you place your feline friend under you arm and head for the bathtub:

* Know that although the cat has the advantage of quickness and lack of concern for human life, you have the advantage of strength. Capitalize on that advantage by selecting the battlefield. Don't try to bathe him in an open area where he can force you to chase him. Pick a very small bathroom. If your bathroom is more than four feet square, I recommend that you get in the tub with the cat and close the sliding-glass doors as if you were about to take a shower. (A simple shower curtain will not do. A berserk cat can shred a three-ply rubber shower curtain quicker than a politician can shift positions.)

* Know that a cat has claws and will not hesitate to remove all the skin from your body. Your advantage here is that you are smart and know how to dress to protect yourself. I recommend canvas overalls tucked into high-top construction boots, a pair of steel-mesh gloves, an army helmet, a hockey face mask and a long-sleeve flak jacket.

* Prepare everything in advance. There is no time to go out for a towel when you have a cat digging a hole in your flak jacket. Draw the water. Make sure the bottle of kitty shampoo is inside the glass enclosure. Make sure the towel can be reached, even if you are lying on your back in the water.

* Use the element of surprise. Pick up your cat nonchalantly, as if to simply carry him to his supper dish. (Cats will not usually notice your strange attire. They have little or no interest in fashion as a rule. If he does notice your garb, calmly explain that you are taking part in a product- testing experiment for J.C. Penney.)

* Once you are inside the bathroom, speed is essential to survival. In a single liquid motion, shut the bathroom door, step into the tub enclosure, slide the glass door shut, dip the cat in the water and squirt him with shampoo. You have begun one of the wildest 45 seconds of your life. Cats have no handles.

Add the fact that he now has soapy fur, and the problem is radically compounded. Do not expect to hold on to him for more that two or three seconds at a time. When you have him, however, you must remember to give him another squirt of shampoo and rub like crazy. He'll then spring free and fall back into the water, thereby rinsing himself off. (The national record is - for cats - three latherings, so don't expect too much.)

* Next, the cat must be dried. Novice cat bathers always assume this part will be the most difficult, for humans generally are worn out at this point and the cat is just getting really determined. In fact, the drying is simple compared to what you have just been through. That's because by now the cat is semi-permanently affixed to your right leg. You simply pop the drain plug with your foot, reach for your towel and wait. (Occasionally, however, the cat will end up clinging to the top of your army helmet. If this happens, the best thing you can do is to shake him loose and to encourage him toward your leg.) After all the water is drained from the tub, it is a simple matter to just reach down and dry the cat.

In a few days the cat will relax enough to be removed from your leg. He will usually have nothing to say for about three weeks and will spend a lot of time sitting with his back to you. He might even become psychoceramic and develop the fixed stare of a plaster figurine.

You will be tempted to assume he is angry. This isn't usually the case. As a rule he is simply plotting ways to get through your defenses and injure you for life the next time you decide to give him a bath. But, at least now he smells a lot better.

                                                  -- Tomas Smith

FLEAS!

FLEAS!

FLEA CONTROL

The fleas and ticks on your dog or cat are only a small percentage of the number in the animal's environment. Fleas and their eggs can live outside in grass, soil and even crevices in sidewalks, while inside they live in rugs and carpets, cracks in floors, bedding, etc. Applying poisons to the animal's body kills only a small part of the problem. You must treat the larger environment to solve the problem.

BAGGING THE BUGS

To really tackle the problem effectively, you must treat both the indoor and outdoor areas the same day, and remove all while this is underway. Getting your animals a flea dip at the veterinarian's office, where they can be dried and kept safe while their home is being treated is probably the best plan. For outdoors, purchase a flea/tick killer for outdoor use; treat the grass and soil where the animal spends most of his time. For indoors, try using a flea "bomb." This will require you to remove birds and fish as well, but is the most effective treatment. The fumes require you to stay out of the home for a number of hours. At the end of the day, bring you animals home.

USE ALTERNATIVES

Comb your pet regularly with a flea comb, vacuum frequently and dispose of the bags immediately after use, mow areas of the lawn where your dog spends time, wash pet bedding weekly, and wash your pet with a pesticide-free pet shampoo. In addition, to protect cats from fleas and ticks, as well as a host of other outdoor hazards, cats should be kept indoors at all times. Find safer, gentler flea and tick treatments and product ingredients at the GreenPaws Flea and Tick Products Directory.

MONTHLY FLEA TREATMENTS

Monthly flea treatments for pets such as Frontline, Advantage, and Revolution contain newer insecticides that are safer and more effective than older, over-the-counter products. The safest monthly treatments are available only through veterinarians or online suppliers that require a prescription. Always consult a veterinarian before buying or using any flea or tick control product on your pet. Read more on the what you should know about flea and tick products.

You may consider several topical products (available through veterinarians) that are insecticides designed to have fewer toxic effects on the nervous systems of mammals: imidacloprid (found in Advantage®), fipronil (in Frontline® or Top Spot®), and selamectin (in Revolution™). Avoid products with carbamates by looking for the chemical names carbaryl and propoxur on the label. Avoid any product with tetrachlorvinphos (TCVP) as this is an organophosphate pesticide.

Consider using a product with insect-growth regulators (IGRs), which are not pesticides. These will prevent the next generation of fleas but will not kill insects already on your pet. Common and effective IGR products include those made with lufenuron (found in Program® and Sentinel® and available by prescription), methoprene (in Precor®), and pyriproxyfen (in Nylar® and EcoKyl®).

MORE SAFETY TIPS

Never use flea and tick products designed for dogs on your cat, or vice versa.

Remember never to apply pesticides to very young, elderly, pregnant, or sick animals unless directed to do so by a veterinarian.

Always read the ingredients, instructions, and warnings on the package thoroughly.

--Humane Society of the United States

LITTER BOX PROBLEMS AND HOW TO SOLVE THEM

At least ten percent of all cats develop elimination problems. Some stop using the box altogether. Some only use their boxes for urination or defecation but not for both. Still others eliminate both in and out of their boxes. Elimination problems can develop as a result of conflict between multiple cats in a home, as a result of a dislike for the litter-box type or the litter itself, as a result of a past medical condition, or as a result of the cat deciding she doesn’t like the location or placement of the litter box.

Unfortunately, once a cat avoids her litter box for whatever reason, her avoidance can become a chronic problem because the cat can develop a surface or location preference for elimination, and this preference might be to your living room rug or your favorite easy chair. The best approach to dealing with these problems is to prevent them before they happen by making your cat’s litter boxes as cat-friendly as possible. (See our common litter-box management issues below, and our ways to make litter boxes cat-friendly.) It is also important that you pay close attention to your cat’s elimination habits so that you can identify problems in the making. If your cat does eliminate outside her box, you must act quickly to resolve the problem before she develops a strong preference for eliminating on an unacceptable surface or in an unacceptable area.

Litter box use problems in cats can be diverse and complex. Behavioral treatments are often effective, but the treatments must be tailored to the cat’s specific problem. Be certain to read the entire article to help you identify your particular cat’s problem and to familiarize yourself with the different resolution approaches to ensure success with your cat.

Why Do Some Cats Eliminate Outside the Litter Box?

Litter-Box Management Problems

If your cat isn’t comfortable with her litter box or can’t easily access it, she probably won’t use it. The following common litter-box problems might cause her to eliminate outside of her box:

You haven’t cleaned your cat’s litter box often or thoroughly enough.
You haven’t provided enough litter boxes for your household. Be sure to have a litter box for each of your cats, as well as one extra.
Your cat’s litter box is too small for her.
Your cat can’t easily get to her litter box at all times.
Your cat’s litter box has a hood or liner that makes her uncomfortable.
The litter in your cat’s box is too deep. Cats usually prefer one to two inches of litter.

Surface Preference

Some cats develop preferences for eliminating on certain surfaces or textures like carpet, potting soil or bedding.

Litter Preference or Aversion

As predators who hunt at night, cats have sensitive senses of smell and touch to help them navigate through their environment. These sensitivities can also influence a cat’s reaction to her litter. Cats who have grown accustomed to a certain litter might decide that they dislike the smell or feel of a different litter.

Location Preference or Aversion

Like people and dogs, cats develop preferences for where they like to eliminate and may avoid locations they don’t like. This means they might avoid their litter box if it’s in a location they dislike.

Inability to Use the Litter Box

Geriatric cats or cats with physical limitations may have a difficult time using certain types of litter boxes such as top-entry boxes, or litter boxes with high sides.

Negative Litter-Box Association

There are many reasons why a cat who has reliably used her litter box in the past starts to eliminate outside of the box. One common reason is that something happened to upset her while she was using the litter box. If this is the case with your cat, you might notice that she seems hesitant to return to the box. She may enter the box, but then leave very quickly—sometimes before even using the box.

One common cause for this is painful elimination. If your cat had a medical condition that caused her pain when she eliminated, she may have learned to associate the discomfort with using her litter box. Even if your cat’s health has returned to normal, that association may still cause her to avoid her litter box.

Household Stress

Stress can cause litter-box problems. Cats can be stressed by events that their owners may not think of as traumatic. Changes in things that even indirectly affect the cat, like moving, adding new animals or family members to your household—even changing your daily routine—can make your cat feel anxious.

Multi-Cat Household Conflict

Sometimes one or more cats in a household control access to litter boxes and prevent the other cats from using them. Even if one of the cats isn’t actually confronting the other cats in the litter box, any conflict between cats in a household can create enough stress to cause litter-box problems.

edical Problems That Can Cause Inappropriate Elimination

Urinary Tract Infection (UTI)

If your cat frequently enters her litter box and seems to produce only small amounts of urine, she may have a urinary tract infection. See a veterinarian to rule out this possible medical problem.

Feline Interstitial Cystitis

Feline interstitial cystitis is a neurological disease that affects a cat’s bladder (“cystitis” means inflamed bladder). Cats with cystitis will attempt to urinate frequently and may look as if they are straining, but with little success. They may lick themselves where they urinate, and they may have blood in their urine. Feline interstitial cystitis can cause a cat to eliminate outside of her box, but this is only because of the increased urgency to urinate and because there is pain involved in urination. Feline interstitial cystitis is very serious and can be life-threatening to the cat. It must be treated immediately by a veterinarian.

Kidney Stones or Blockage

If your cat has kidney stones or a blockage, she may frequently enter her litter box. She may also experience pain and meow or cry when she tries to eliminate. Her abdomen may be tender to the touch.

Other Behavior Problems to Rule Out

Urine Marking

Urine marking is a problem that most pet owners consider a litter box problem since it involves elimination outside the box, but the cause and treatment are entirely different from other litter-box problems and therefore it is considered a rule out. A cat who urine marks will regularly eliminate in her litter box, but will also deposit urine in other locations, usually on vertical surfaces. When marking, she’ll usually back up to a vertical object like a chair side, wall or speaker, stand with her body erect and her tail extended straight up in the air, and spray urine onto the surface. Often her tail will twitch while she’s spraying. The amount of urine a cat sprays when she’s urine marking is usually less than the amount she would void during regular elimination in her box.

What to Do If Your Cat Eliminates Outside the Litter Box

Basic Tips for Making Cats Feel Better About Using Their Litter Boxes

Virtually all cats like clean litter boxes, so scoop and change your cat’s litter at least once a day. Rinse the litter box out completely with baking soda or unscented soap once a week.

The majority of cats prefer large boxes that they can enter easily. Plastic sweater storage containers make excellent litter boxes.

Most cats like a shallow bed of litter. Provide one to two inches of litter rather than three to four inches.

Most cats prefer clumping, unscented litter. Your cat may prefer the type of litter she used as a kitten. Most cats don’t like box liners or lids on their boxes. Cats like their litter boxes located in a quiet but not “cornered” location. They like to be able to see people or other animals approaching, and they like to have multiple escape routes in case they want to leave their boxes quickly.

Because self-cleaning boxes are generally cleaner than traditional types of litter boxes, many cats accept them readily. However, if you’re using a self-cleaning litter box and your cat starts eliminating outside the box, try switching to a traditional type of litter box.

Resolving a Litter-Box Problem

The first step in resolving elimination outside the litter box is to rule out urine marking and medical problems. Have your cat checked thoroughly by a veterinarian. Once your veterinarian determines that your cat doesn’t have a medical condition or issue, try following these guidelines:

Provide enough litter boxes. Make sure you have one for each cat in your household, plus one extra. For example, if you have three cats, you’ll need a minimum of four litter boxes. Place litter boxes in accessible locations, away from high-traffic areas and away from areas where the cat might feel trapped. If you live in a multistory residence, you may need to provide a litter box on each level. Keep boxes away from busy, loud or intimidating places, like next to your washer and dryer or next to your dog’s food and water bowls, or in areas where there’s a lot of foot traffic.

Put your cat’s food bowls somewhere other than right next to her litter box. Remove covers and liners from all litter boxes.

Give your cat a choice of litter types. Cats generally prefer clumping litter with a medium to fine texture. Use unscented litter. Offer different types of litter in boxes placed side-by-side to allow your cat to show you her preference.

Scoop at least once a day. Once a week, clean all litter boxes with warm water and unscented soap, baking soda or no soap, and completely replace the litter. The problem with scented cleaners is that your cat could develop an aversion to the scent.

Clean accidents thoroughly with an enzymatic cleanser designed to neutralize pet odors. You can find this kind of cleaner at most pet stores.

If your cat soils in just a few spots, place litter boxes there. If it’s not possible to put a box in a spot where your cat has eliminated, place her food bowl, water bowl, bed or toys in that area to discourage further elimination.

Make inappropriate elimination areas less appealing. Try putting regular or motion-activated lights in dark areas. You can also make surfaces less pleasant to stand on by placing upside-down carpet runners, tin foil or double-sided sticky tape in the area where your cat has eliminated in the past.

If Your Cat Has Developed a Surface or Location Preference

your cat seems to prefer eliminating on a certain kind of surface or in a certain location, you’ll need to make that surface or its location less appealing. If the preference is in a dark area, try putting a bright light or, even better, a motion-activated light in the area. You can also make surfaces less pleasant to stand on by placing upside-down carpet runners, tin foil or double-sided sticky tape where your cat has eliminated in the past. At the same time, provide your cat with extra litter boxes in acceptable places in case part of her problem is the location of her usual litter box, and be sure to give her multiple kinds of litter to choose from so that she can show you which one she prefers. Put the boxes side-by-side for a while,

Clean accidents thoroughly with an enzymatic cleanser designed to neutralize pet odors. You can find this kind of cleaner at most pet stores.

If Your Cat Has Developed a Litter Preference or Aversion

ats usually develop a preference for litter type and scent as kittens. Some cats adapt to a change of litter without any problem at all, while other cats may feel uncomfortable using a type of litter that they didn’t use when they were young.

If you think your cat may dislike her litter type, texture or smell, try offering her different types of litter to use. Cats generally prefer clumping litter with a medium to fine texture. They also usually prefer unscented litter. To help your cat pick her preferred litter, put a few boxes side-by-side with different types of litter in them. She’ll use the one the she likes best.

Clean accidents thoroughly with an enzymatic cleanser designed to neutralize pet odors. You can find this kind of cleaner at most pet stores.

If Your Cat Is Unable to Use Her Litter Box

Special-needs cats such as those who are older, arthritic or still very young might have trouble with certain types of litter boxes. Boxes that have sides that are too high or have a top-side opening might make it difficult for your cat to enter or leave the box. Try switching to a litter box with low sides.

As in any situation where the cat may have eliminated outside her box, clean accidents thoroughly with an enzymatic cleanser designed to neutralize pet odors. You can find this kind of cleaner at most pet stores.

Treatment for Negative Litter Box Association

If your cat has experienced some kind of frightening or upsetting event while using her litter box, she could associate that event with the litter box and avoid going near it. Things that might upset your cat while she’s eliminating in her box include being cornered or trapped by a dog, cat or person, hearing a loud noise or commotion, or seeing something frightening or startling. These experiences—or any other disturbing experience—could make your cat very reluctant to enter her litter box. If your cat is afraid of her litter box, you may notice her running into the box and then leaving again very quickly, sometimes before she’s finished eliminating. You may also notice her eliminating nearby, but not inside her box. This means that your cat is worried about using her box, especially if she has reliably used litter box in the past.

Changing the Way Your Cat Feels

If your cat associates her litter box with unpleasant things, you can work to help her develop new and pleasant associations. Cats can’t be forced to enjoy something, and trying to show your cat that her litter box is safe by placing her in the box will likely backfire and increase her dislike of the box. It’s usually not a good idea to try to train your cat to use her litter box by offering her treats like you would a dog, because many cats do not like attention while they’re eliminating. However, a professional animal behavior consultant, such as a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist (CAAB) or a board-certified veterinary behaviorist (Dip ACVB) may be able to help you design a successful retraining or counterconditioning program.

Sometimes retraining to overcome litter-box fears or aversions may not be necessary. Here are some steps that you can try to help your cat learn new pleasant associations.

Move your cat’s litter box to a new location, or add a few litter boxes in different locations at the same time. Pick locations where your cat can see who is approaching from any sides that aren’t backed by walls. These locations should also have multiple escape routes so that your cat can quickly leave her litter box if she suddenly feels anxious. If possible, make sure that children or other animals who might seem threatening to your cat can’t get near her litter box.

Fill the litter boxes one to two inches deep with a litter that is a little different from the litter in the boxes your cat avoids. Use a finer or coarser texture. If you’ve been using scented litter, try unscented litter.

Try playing with your cat near her litter box. Also leave treats and toys for her to find and enjoy in the general area leading to her box. Don’t put her food bowl next to the box, though, because cats usually don’t like to eliminate close to their food. If you have a long-haired cat, try carefully and gently clipping the hair on her hind end if you notice that it gets soiled or matted during elimination. Matting can cause the hair to get pulled when the cat eliminates. That can be painful for the cat and make her skittish of her litter box.

Treatment for Household Stress

Cats sometimes stop using their litter boxes when they feel stressed. Identify and, if possible, eliminate any sources of stress or frustration in your cat’s environment. For instance, keep her food bowls full and in the same place, keep her routine as predictable as possible, prevent the dog from chasing her, close blinds on windows and doors so she isn’t upset by cats outside. If you can’t eliminate sources of stress, try to reduce them. Incorporate the use of Feliway® spray or diffusers, which deliver a synthetic pheromone that has been shown to have some effect in relieving stress in cats. You can find Feliway products in many pet stores and online.

Treatment for Multi-Cat Household Conflict

Sometimes an elimination problem can develop as a result of conflict between cats who live together. If you have multiple cats and aren’t sure which cat is soiling, speak with your veterinarian about giving fluorescein, a harmless dye, to one of your cats. Although the dye does not usually stain carpeting, it causes urine to glow blue under ultraviolet light for about 24 hours. If you can’t get or use fluorescein, you can temporarily confine your cats, one at a time, to determine which one is eliminating outside of the litter boxes in your home.

If there is a conflict between your cats and one of them seems stressed, provide additional litter boxes in locations where the anxious cat spends the majority of her time. Also be sure to provide adequate resting areas for each cat. It can very useful in multi-cat households to create vertical resting spots on shelves or window sills or by buying multi-perch cat trees. It may help to distribute resources such as food, water, cat posts or trees, and litter boxes so that each individual cat can make use of them without coming into contact or having a conflict with one of the other cats. Using Feliway spray or diffusers can reduce general social stress in your household.

Medications

Always consult with your veterinarian or a veterinary behaviorist before giving your cat any type of medication for a behavior problem.

Medications can provide additional help in treating inappropriate elimination when the behavior is in response to stress or anxiety. It’s unlikely to be helpful if your cat eliminates outside her litter box because of litter-management problems, an aversion to a particular kind of litter or location, a preference for a particular surface or location, or a physical inability to use the box. If you’d like to explore this option, speak with your veterinarian, a veterinary behaviorist or a Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist who can work closely with your vet.

What NOT to Do

Regardless of what you do so solve your cat’s elimination problems, here are a few things to avoid:

Do not rub your cat’s nose in urine or feces.

Do not scold your cat and carry or drag her to the litter box.

Do not confine your cat to a small room with the litter box, for days to weeks or longer, without doing anything else to resolve her elimination problems.

Do not clean up accidents with an ammonia-based cleanser. Urine contains ammonia, and therefore cleaning with ammonia could attract your cat to the same spot to urinate again. Instead, use a product specifically for cleaning pet accidents, such as Nature’s Miracle®.

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This helpful article is by the ASPCA.

WELCOME TO DEAR TABBY'S NEW HOME!

To all friends of Dear Tabby The Answer Cat, welcome! This is our new home.

For reasons too boring to repeat, it was best for us to leave our old home at http://deartabbytheanswercat.com/.

Dear Tabby expects to be totally comfortable here, and hopes you will be, too.

Again, welcome!

-- Dear Tabby